The self-supported cycle race from the Black Sea in Bulgaria to France’s Atlantic coast is the toughest test of its kind
As I rolled along quiet lanes in the mountains of Serbia, a ferocious barking delivered a jolt of adrenaline and canine feet approached my bike fast from the side. I longed for the crashing sound of dog-on-fence, followed by angry snarls at my disappearing back wheel.
Every town and village here seemed to have a pack of wild dogs, though, and there was no fence to stop them. It was worse at night when the streets were deserted, the dogs bolder and my fear deeper. One movement in the darkness and, as my light picked out bared white teeth ahead, the chase was on. My tactic was to sprint as fast as I could, hoping to avoid the bite that would divert me to hospital for a series of rabies jabs. I survived around 100 chases and didn’t hear of a single bite in the 265-strong field. We were lucky.