Forbes Lifestyle Travel A Travel Writer’s Guide to the Best Bars in Memphis Joe Sills Contributor Opinions expressed by Forbes Contributors are their own. I'm a freelance writer, explorer, and photojournalist. Following May 27, 2023, 03:08pm EDT | Press play to listen to this article! Got it! Share to
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Twitter Share to Linkedin A pair of travelers sip from bottles on a rooftop in Memphis. by Joe Sills Memphis is more than the Grizzlies and Graceland. For a true taste of the Bluff City, belly up to these barstools and get to know the locals. Memphis is in the midst of a reboot. A little off-the-beaten-path, a little misunderstood, and all heart. Memphis is undeniably one of America’s culture capitals. This blue-collar city on the banks of the Mississippi River lays claim as the birthplace of at least two musical genres, the blues and rock n’ roll, while serving as a hotbed of talent and innovation for two more, soul and hip-hop. I should know. For most of my adult life, Memphis has been home. And while I've carved out a globetrotting career as a travel writer, authoring everything from guidebooks to blog posts, magazine spreads and podcasts over almost a decade on the road, I always boomeranged back to the Bluff City, a place I’m proud to call home. Despite the rise neighboring Nashville’s status as a domestic travel hub, Memphis retains a steady flow of international visitors making pilgrimage to the Bluff City to see some of
American music’s most hallowed ground. In recent years, a deluge of boutique hotels have begun to reinvigorate the city’s overnight digs for travelers. Meanwhile, the city itself has shifted its spotlight away from Graceland and onto an increasingly diverse mashup of musical heritage sites, museums and attractions. Though the house that Elvis built remains the most popular ticket in town, there’s much to explore beyond the gates of Graceland. So, if you’re headed for the Bluff City this year, ditch those blue suede shoes, lace up some Ja 1’s or foamposites and venture out to explore beyond the travel brochures. Some of the city’s most memorable moments can be found inside the doors of these bars. The Best Bars in Memphis Nate Barnes mans the upstairs bar in Earnestine & Hazels, a former brothel and nightclub that still ... [+] cranks out the jams on the weekends. by Joe Sills MORE FOR YOU 44 Chefs Share What They Think Makes The Perfect Burger The Best Pizza Ovens According To Rigorous Backyard Testing Don t Bailout This IPO CAVAstrophe Earnestine & Hazel’s - Sometimes called the Most Haunted Bar in America, this former brothel turned juke joint remains much as it was in the days where Ray Charles, The Rolling Stones and Led Zeppelin would stopover to patron its upstairs areas. Weekend nights at Earnestine & Hazel’s usually mean a full crowd dancing to a live band downstairs, while those “in the know” meander to the back hallway and up an ominous flight of stairs to kick it with legendary bartender, Nate Barnes. Barnes has been visiting the joint since he was delivering booze for Budweiser in the 1970s. He knew both Earnestine and Hazel; and he’s a holdover from the juke joint’s original ownership group in the 1990s. Try the soul burger and remember— no dope smoken’, no cursin’ and no free loden’. Wild Bill’s - A Vollentine-area dive bar where you’ll pay a cover at the door and be escorted in by armed security. At Wild Bill’s , expect a gathering of old heads and European travelers that have made their way up from the Mississippi Blues Trail . They’ll likely be drinking 40s and enjoying blues classics from the house band. Tiger & Peacock - A rooftop bar in the heart of the Overton Square theatre district. Tiger & Peacock is located in a new boutique hotel, The Memphian. Tiger & Peacock is a great place to grab a drink before taking in a show at The Hattiloo Theatre —one of the south’s only Black repertoire theatre—Theatre Memphis, Ballet Memphis or Playhouse on the Square. If you’re fortunate enough to be visiting during the Indy Memphis Film Festival , pair a visit with a movie night at Studio on the Square . Hernando’s Hideaway - This place f***** rocks. Hernando’s Hideaway is a rockabilly bar near the corner of Brooks Road and Elvis Presley Boulevard. It’s the only reason for locals to go near Graceland and the only country
music joint Memphians tolerate. Hernando’s Hideaway comes with legit credibility as the former stomping grounds of Johnny Cash, Jerry Lee Lewis and Elvis; and its green room is even home to one of Lewis’s former sofas. Gross. Jared Boyd spins records on "Elmertha," a former Mississippi church organ that now hosts DJs from ... [+] around the country inside the Central Station Hotel in downtown Memphis by Joe Sills Eight & Sand - Located in Central Station Hotel , this
Late Night spot serves up live DJs year-round, some of whom fly in from as far as Miami and
Los Angeles just to perform in this one-of-a-kind former train station. You may spot Memphis hip-hop legends like DJ Spanish Fly, DJ Paul or 8Ball hanging around. Record producers like Boo Mitchell are regulars, as are former members of the Bar-Kays and the Stax house band. Expect deep tracks of Memphis standards fading into the roots of horrorcore and trap music as the night goes on. The food here is standard bar food, but Bishop —located next door—is one of the city’s finest spots. Peak behind the bar to find a “hidden” listening room powered by world class ElgestonWorks audio. Blues Hall - The closet thing to a dive bar on Beale Street, Blues Hall usually has an excellent house band and minuscule cover. The side door covered in dollar bills leads to the revered Rum Boogie Cafe where a larger stage and more soul and blues standards await. Inkwell - Billed as “a dope cocktail bar,” the brainchild of local creative guru Ben Colar is a new addition to the scene. Inkwell is situated in the Edge District not far from Sun Studio and just a short hope from downtown. This bar serves premium cocktails and mocktails with a chic, inclusive vibe. Try their riff on a Manhattan dubbed the Beauty of the Week. B-Side - The pint-sized neighbor of midtown’s Minglewood Hall, B-Side hosts smaller, often more eclectic acts like Devil Train and Evil Rain (which are actually the same band plus or minus a few members) and Wednesday Night Titans, a wrestling-themed jam band. Though crowds can get lively, a typical night at B-Side involves laid-back vibes, a pool cue and a pint of Tiny
bomb from Memphis’s own Wiseacre Brewing Co. Pro tip: the food menu here is underrated. Beck & Call - The best sunset views in Memphis can be found at Beck & Call , a rooftop bar located at the Hyatt Centric downtown. These kind-of-pricey cocktails are dished out beneath portraits of Memphis music legends like Justin Timberlake, Yo Gotti, Valerie June and Tina Turner. They’re not bad and certainly worth it for a view. Pro tip: Check out the
fire pit on the back terrace with views of the skyline. Amanda Hicks mixes a cocktail at The Memphis Whistle in Midtown's Cooper-Young neighborhood. by Joe Sills Memphis Whistle - The best cocktails in town can be found at Memphis Whistle . The kind of place where you tell the bartender what you like and they make something to your liking that you’ve never heard of. Excellent food as well. Jef and Amanda Hicks can usually be found running the bar and shaking things up with an array of regulars. Try the barbecue nachos and “Corpse Reviver No. 2.” Railgarten - An outdoor patio-style bar with an expansive landscape, volleyball court and live music located in Midtown. Railgarten follows the “neighborhood backyard bar” formula familiar around American cities these days; but it’s hard to beat in spring and autumn months when Memphis has a few weeks of rare, excellent weather. Alternatives of similar ilk are Loflin Yard and Carolina Watershed, which are both located downtown . The Cove - This Binghampton cocktail bar is more dive than lounge. Weekends bring live music at The Cove , but the real draw is the opportunity to belly up to barstool and eat Gulf Coast oysters from a pirate ship bar. Max’s Sports Bar - Max’s Sports Bar is the place to go for sports fans and night owls. This South Main staple is a watering hole for Grizzlies and Tigers fans often doubles as the de-facto crawfish capital of Memphis. Snag a “purple drink” and ask about the Malort Challenge. The recently revamped pizza menu is fabulous. Flipside - Park your paddles at Flipside , a pinball-themed bar in Midtown Crosstown Concourse. This laidback arcade serves up incredible Tex Mex-inspired eats with an extensive beer catalog. Vintage pinball machines are available to play, and kept in peak working order due to the bar’s slot on the professional pinball circuits. Alex’s Tavern - For decades, the Memphis service industry has been gathering at Alex’s Tavern after other doors are closed. Today, you can still usually find its neon-flanked doors on Jackson Avenue open with a duo of jukeboxes and a kitchen full of Greek burgers ready to help you close the night. Follow me on Twitter . Check out my website . Joe Sills Editorial Standards Print Reprints & Permissions